Monday, 1. February 2010 21:40
On January 10th, Tahn Manapo and I set off for Thailand. As usual we were going to attend the Ajahn Chah Remembrance Day on January 16th, the anniversary of Ajahn Chah’s death in 1992. We spent one night in Bangkok and then the next day a former Warwick student with another in attendance drove us at high speed to Wat Pah Pong. Most people think of this as an eight to ten hour drive but we did it in five hours and forty-five minutes!
With time to spare before the big day we were able to organise a day trip to Sakon Nakon to the museum dedicated to Ajahn Mun, the famous and highly respected monk who revived the Forest tradition and who died in 1949. I had been there a few times before but I hadn’t ever visited the place nearby where a remarkable nun had lived and died. Mae Chee Kaew had been a disciple of Ajahn Mun and by the time she passed away in 1991 she was recognised as an Arahant. Her nunnery is on the way to Sakon Nakon and so we took the opportunity to stop there and admire the tasteful Mae Chee Kaew Memorial Stupa in which her relics are enshrined and where images of her are displayed. From there we went on to the Ajahn Mun Museum and after that we eventually made our to a small temple that I lasted visited with Ajahn Chah in 1977, just before we came to England. This was where Ajahn Kinnerley, one of Ajahn Chah’s teachers, used to live. He was still alive when I went there with Ajahn Chah and I well remember him on other occasions visiting Wat Pah Pong. Ajahn Kinnerley was famous for having walked all the way to India to visit the Holy Places where the Buddha lived and taught and then walking all the way back! After we left there we headed towards the Mekong and the huge, highly venerated chedi of Phra Taht Panom, which as the light changed provided an utterly stunning finale to our day.
On the 16th we took part in the circumambulation of the Ajahn Chah Chedi and then a couple of days later we went to stay with my old friend, Luangpor Dang at Numyeun. He lives with a handful of followers in a very simple and not especially well supported temple set in a large forest. Life there is pretty basic and that together with his direct, no nonsense and humorous approach was very refreshing and made me wonder whether I wouldn’t like to stay longer. But we didn’t and after short stops at Wat Pah Nanachat for a night and Bangkok for another we soon found ourselves on the island of Phuket where once again we were welcomed and cared for at Sri Panwa. There I planned to shut the gate on our villa and have a few days complete rest but we did venture out on a couple of short excursions.
On our first evening we went to pay our respects to Luangpor Supah who must be the oldest monk in the world. His birth certificate says he is over 113 years old but he says that actually his birth wasn’t registered until he was two and so he is in fact a hundred and fifteen! I must say I hope I’m as sharp as him at 115, or even at 113!
Our second trip was an afternoon boat ride that ended on an uninhabited island that we could see from our villa. This little island, I couldn’t help thinking, was the perfect setting for a tiny, one monk, retirement temple! But while we lingered there I caught the sun and got badly sunburnt.
After a few days on Phuket we returned to Bangkok for a night and to meet a few friends and former students and then it was back on a plane to England and Warwickshire – and the cold and the snow.
There are some more pictures here.